Rock climbing training: say goodbye to the platform

If you like rock climbing, you don't want to improve the climbing level. However, it is a problem how to scientifically improve climbing ability. This is certainly a matter of opinion. Just like losing weight, there is no easy way to put it on everyone, but other people's methods may be a lesson for you. Analysis, understanding, practice, maybe change is waiting for you there. This article found from Climb.com, although it is the skill of training to reach the plateau after reaching the platform period, but some of the tips can give all the rock climbers some inspiration, at least I think so. There have been no new translations for a long time. I hope this translation can give us some inspiration.

Rock climbing training: say goodbye to the platform

Rock climbing is very addictive. One of the reasons for this is that you can see a significant increase in your strength and skills in your climbing days. But a few months later, if you are fortunate, it is a few years later that the platform period will come quietly, slowing your progress and making you extremely frustrated. In my personal bottleneck period of three years, I heard a variety of suggestions, including doing more chin-ups, ignoring the pain, insisting on climbing every day, and recommending that I should be happy (this will never be occur). In order to find the right way, I began to visit those top rock climbers to see how they all lived through such a terrible period of physical and psychological platforms. The answer I found was just like the climbers themselves. Diverse and interesting.

Nutrition and healthy weight

Weight has always been a topic of concern for rock climbers. Once upon a time, dieting was a typical practice. Strong rock climbers would rather sacrifice their muscle mass to lose weight. Today, everyone has realized that dieting not only does not increase your climbing level, but also does not contribute to your health. To find out if your weight is healthy, overweight, or below standard weight, you can check your BMI at bmi-calculator.net. Here will give you a good reference to tell you how much fat you need to prepare for - if you really need it. Of course, the BMI also has its flaws. Those who are very well-balanced or muscular men may be detected as overweight. The final assessment of your weight and food intake is your performance in climbing and your daily feelings.

The next step is to see how much you should consume. Click on myfitnesspal.com, a free online website that tests your diet based on your weight, height, gender and exercise level. Use these estimated basic calorie needs as a guide to track diets online to see how much you should eat each day. After a few days of testing, you will know how much you have eaten, and how many things you need to eat. This will help you find a balance between dieting weight loss and eating to keep energy.

So what should you eat? Whole foods such as lean meats, vegetables, fruits and whole wheat play a vital role in maintaining a healthy body weight. Mike Anderson is a climber and coach with 5.14 rock climbing ability. One of his tricks is to eat a lot of low-density foods such as vegetables. He will eat at least once a day a large amount of vegetables, meat and healthy fat (avocado, olive oil) prepared salad; this can provide a lot of nutrition, and long-term satiety, but also provide a lot of cellulose, protein and fat . Accelerated fat loss can be achieved by reducing the intake of carbohydrates. Rock climbers all need carbohydrates to provide energy, but they don't need to eat as much as a normal American (bagels for breakfast, sandwiches for lunch, pasta for dinner, and so on). This will result in the storage of these unused calories as fat.

Strength Training

Most rock climbers do not like to spend training time outside the rock wall, but adding 1-2 special training after rock climbing, such as fingerboard exercises, will produce unexpected results. If you are short, you can perform a wide-pick-up, wide-grip sit-down training, which will increase your touch distance and increase your locking power. Find a sitting position puller (which is available in most gyms) and hold the grab as wide as possible – it should be wider than the shoulder. Gradually try to pull down the weight until you can't even pull it three times. Then use this weight as a pull-down exercise, in groups of two (because the third one cannot pull up), do three to five groups, and rest for 5 minutes in each group. Do this exercise after climbing, or not on rock climbing days; don't do it before rock climbing, otherwise you will feel tired on the rock wall, thus reducing your maximum rock climbing time. At the beginning, three times a week, as the ability becomes stronger, increase the weight. You can also do more exercises per week, but if you find yourself climbing in the rock climbing practice because of too much fatigue, you need to reduce the amount of training back to three times a week.

Steve Bechtel is a rock climbing instructor and a writer. At the same time, he is also a strong advocate of weight training, fingerboard training, and finger training. He said, "I am more and more convinced that if you simply do some basic strength training, your ability will be more and more progressive." Have you ever considered to combine running training in your training? Think again. Bechtel thinks running is a waste of time for climbers. Instead, focus on training that significantly increases skills and significantly increases skills. Trainings that can significantly increase skills include: climbing training, fingerboard training, fingering training, and weight-bearing training; and those that significantly increase skills include squat training and bow-pressing.

Try to do leg bowing and squat training twice a week to increase leg strength and core strength. In doing so, you can also improve your overall skills, especially when you are performing dynamic actions like the lower body, this exercise will give you more power. Many professional climbers recommend fingerboard training as a trick to improve climbing. As the climbing level increases, the hand points will become smaller and smaller, and the slope will become larger and worse. Then the finger training will make these hand points feel easier and better grasped. Think of it this way: If you can touch a hand, you can touch it, and then you can grab it. If you can catch it, but you grasp it, you can grasp it. For more training methods, see Digit Dialing.

Short board

Focusing on what you're good at makes you feel energetic; when faced with one of your weaknesses, it's not so easy, and you need to turn them into strengths. Here are some of the common shortcomings I found in professional players.

Bad foot method. Find the worst footsteps in the rock hall, then use all the methods to practice and move in various directions. Do this in the wild, looking for well-known foot-slip, small-foot, and poor-footline exercises.

Small hands, bigger. Women are very good at acupressure on the little hand, but when the hand becomes a big slope or points that need to be handcuffed, it often breaks. The only way to master these big hands is to use them. Shannon Forsman is a tall but very strong bouldering player with a bouldering ability at V12. She is also a rock climbing instructor. She will encourage women to try to climb some harder lines that don't only have acupressure: "I just want them to try some lines that are not in their comfort zone, whether it's going to make a big slope or a kick, or even prancing. You just have to try it! Going to climb a route that is several levels higher than your own bouldering may be difficult, or it may be very shameful, but as time goes on you will become better.” She also said that for the open-ended In terms of the hand, pointing is not the only factor; rackets also require the patience, balance, torso tension, and subtle movements of rock climbers; all limbs must participate. You are not just catching a slope. You are using a different part of your body to keep yourself in a position. The general experience of a beating slope is to try to sink as far as possible so that you are pulling down instead of pulling out.

power. Whether you can brush several times on easier routes, but if you don't have the power, you will inevitably encounter a platform on another difficult climbing level. At this time, you must try to die on a difficult bouldering route and do not go around randomly to choose a climbing route. Both fingerboard and fingerboard training are particularly helpful. Consider adding a few simple jump box trainings after the end of the rock climbing (this action is repeated on the 18” to 24” tall box). This helps increase leg strength and muscle memory, which can be used when doing big moves.

Failure and red dot

When climbing has reached the world level, professional players often face failures. Every professional rock climber must play his own positive attitude, which also includes the spiritual overcoming mechanism. Some studies in sports psychology have shown that the best athletes are athletes who can “lie” themselves, meaning that they will say to themselves in their heart, “Yes, I can do it. No matter what I just did More dishes - I can do it absolutely. No problem." Although some lines may currently exceed your climbing ability and strength level, it is best to try blindly with optimism and confidence. Carlo Traversi has an exciting positive attitude and simple intentions. She said: "There will be lots of failures in climbing. I try not to struggle with those failures. I climb because it is fun."

These professional players have all spent months, or even years, dying on the same route. This means that they will go back and forth to the same rocky site and they will be optimistic about each time they go, but they also hope to return there. If you are lucky, you may be on the road to a higher level, and if the bad luck, according to Anderson brothers (author of rock climber training manual) said, it should go back to the rock hall, focus on strength training, and make themselves Become stronger. They say that sometimes it's best not to touch the rock walls in the wild, although this may mean that you can't finish the route in that rock season.

Whitney Boland is a 5.14 Rocker. She said that because she is relatively short, she feels uneasy and afraid before doing certain actions. In particular, she has large movements and needs dynamic movements. She suggested to work hard to complete the route. She said, “When you do this action, you have to make up your mind and decide it firmly. Many times, you will be surprised at this. Even if you do not complete the action and the fall occurred, but you will do this. I'm proud because you really worked hard, and then you can make some adjustments for your next attempt."

Breathe

Just by focusing and taking a deep breath you can make everything feel easier. When you encounter difficulties in rock climbing, breathing will usually become shallow and urgent, which will reduce the overall effectiveness of your body, and even the head will not be so good. Learn to breathe slowly, deeply, and as you climb the rock wall. If the breathing sounds can help you focus, you can breathe out loud. Exercise more, this will help you find a balance between rapid breathing and slow breathing. Smooth, calm breathing is a simple way to improve climbing techniques.