Author: Mark Twight / James Martin
Translator:airfox
Looking back at history, the American climbing community has traditionally not looked at alpine style climbing. On the contrary, more reports have focused on large wall climbing and siege climbing. Of course, there were exceptions. Messner’s Himalayan expedition received a courtesy on the home page, but there were many fast and lightly successful climbs of great mountains that only got a few reports. The events listed below cannot, of course, exhaust all progress in the history of alpine climbing, but they do indeed affect my personal climbing style.
Alpine style climbing developed into a highly developed art in the 1980s. But without the climb of those daring dares to dream, this art will never evolve into this situation today—they were Before the Second World War, they had climbed the Eiger 3970m, the Matterhorn North (Matterhorn 4478m), the Grands Jorasses North (4205m) and the other northern walls of the Alps. Today when we continue to climb these classic routes, Can not help but pay homage to the courage of the ancestors with a very rough equipment aspect in the unknown area.
After the Second World War, newer and harder routes appeared between the existing routes of each famous "wall". Walter Bonatti founded one of the most difficult hybrid routes in the Alps in 1962 on the northern wall of the Grand Pilier d'Angle in Mont Blanc. This is a bold step towards the future. It provided the training grounds for the 1963 Winters First Route of the Grands Jorasses and the 1956 Whymper Spur (and Michel Vaucher).
With the growth of talent and the advancement of training techniques, many routes that originally required three days to complete were increasingly settled within one day. Messner pioneered this trend in 1969 with a nine-hour Solo finish on the Davaille north wall of Les Droites. At this time, the appearance of the curved tip of the short ice axe was only three years old. The reverse curved tip was only a dream, and Ice Dagger was the second most common tool.
In the 1970s, a large number of steep ice climbing began in the Alps and elsewhere, including the famous Cecchinel-Nomine route in Pilier d'Angle, the Northeast Couloir route in Les Drus, and Super Couloir in Mont Blanc du Tacul. At the same time, the icefall climbed rapidly in North America. With the further development of tools, techniques, and knowledge, these routes have begun to appear with faster climbs and Solo without wires.
Since the mountain has not become higher and more difficult, alpine climbers have paid more attention to the pure aspects of speed and style. For climbers, Solo’s completion of the northern wall of Les Droites in 4 to 6 hours is a piece of cake. In order to pass the remaining 18 to 24 hours, they began to connect several lines in a marathon continuous climbing process. In the winter of 1983, Christophe Profit, an outstanding French Alps friend, completed the 21st hour of the North Wall of Les Droites, Aiguille du Talefre, Grandes Jorasses (by the Shroud). Patrick Gabarrou crossed the Mont Blanc alone in 1989 and climbed seven northern walls along the way.
The historical record of continuous climbing in the Alps has reached its peak in 1996. Patrick Berhault and Francois Bibollet have completed the most difficult route combination, Les Droites (Colton-Brooks), Grandes Jorasses (Colton-McIntyre), Pilier a'Angle ( Cecchinel-Nomine, and Hyper Couloir on the south wall of Mont Blanc. Although there are many other continuous climbing routes around the world, the Climbers have completed their races in the Alps. Now their eyes have begun to look elsewhere for greater challenges.
In the early 1990s, there were quite difficult ice routes in the Alps. Andy Parkin and the author created the Beyond Good and Evil route on the northern wall of Aiguille des Pelerins in 1992. Scott Backes and the author climbed a new course a year later on the northern wall of Aiguille Sans Nom and rated it difficult above Beyond. Andy and Francois Marsigny pioneered several similar routes. The hardest part is the Alaskan Freeway (1998) by Dent du Caiman. Each new route is more exciting than the previous one.
Synchronized with the progress of Europe, the extreme alpine climbing has also begun to develop in other regions. George Lowe and Chris Jones made an eye-catching attempt in 1974 at the 6,000-foot North Twin North Wall in Rocky Mountain, Canada. Climb into trouble, unable to retreat. Food and fuel shortages, anorexia, and equipment fall, is Lowe's will and Jones's "high potential for survival" that eventually allowed them to complete the climb. Even by the end of the twentieth century, this route will remain unfinished. For those North American mountains that are raised in the depths and have not been ravaged by mechanical means, they really need to invest so seriously in this line.
Translator:airfox
Looking back at history, the American climbing community has traditionally not looked at alpine style climbing. On the contrary, more reports have focused on large wall climbing and siege climbing. Of course, there were exceptions. Messner’s Himalayan expedition received a courtesy on the home page, but there were many fast and lightly successful climbs of great mountains that only got a few reports. The events listed below cannot, of course, exhaust all progress in the history of alpine climbing, but they do indeed affect my personal climbing style.
Alpine style climbing developed into a highly developed art in the 1980s. But without the climb of those daring dares to dream, this art will never evolve into this situation today—they were Before the Second World War, they had climbed the Eiger 3970m, the Matterhorn North (Matterhorn 4478m), the Grands Jorasses North (4205m) and the other northern walls of the Alps. Today when we continue to climb these classic routes, Can not help but pay homage to the courage of the ancestors with a very rough equipment aspect in the unknown area.
After the Second World War, newer and harder routes appeared between the existing routes of each famous "wall". Walter Bonatti founded one of the most difficult hybrid routes in the Alps in 1962 on the northern wall of the Grand Pilier d'Angle in Mont Blanc. This is a bold step towards the future. It provided the training grounds for the 1963 Winters First Route of the Grands Jorasses and the 1956 Whymper Spur (and Michel Vaucher).
With the growth of talent and the advancement of training techniques, many routes that originally required three days to complete were increasingly settled within one day. Messner pioneered this trend in 1969 with a nine-hour Solo finish on the Davaille north wall of Les Droites. At this time, the appearance of the curved tip of the short ice axe was only three years old. The reverse curved tip was only a dream, and Ice Dagger was the second most common tool.
In the 1970s, a large number of steep ice climbing began in the Alps and elsewhere, including the famous Cecchinel-Nomine route in Pilier d'Angle, the Northeast Couloir route in Les Drus, and Super Couloir in Mont Blanc du Tacul. At the same time, the icefall climbed rapidly in North America. With the further development of tools, techniques, and knowledge, these routes have begun to appear with faster climbs and Solo without wires.
Since the mountain has not become higher and more difficult, alpine climbers have paid more attention to the pure aspects of speed and style. For climbers, Solo’s completion of the northern wall of Les Droites in 4 to 6 hours is a piece of cake. In order to pass the remaining 18 to 24 hours, they began to connect several lines in a marathon continuous climbing process. In the winter of 1983, Christophe Profit, an outstanding French Alps friend, completed the 21st hour of the North Wall of Les Droites, Aiguille du Talefre, Grandes Jorasses (by the Shroud). Patrick Gabarrou crossed the Mont Blanc alone in 1989 and climbed seven northern walls along the way.
The historical record of continuous climbing in the Alps has reached its peak in 1996. Patrick Berhault and Francois Bibollet have completed the most difficult route combination, Les Droites (Colton-Brooks), Grandes Jorasses (Colton-McIntyre), Pilier a'Angle ( Cecchinel-Nomine, and Hyper Couloir on the south wall of Mont Blanc. Although there are many other continuous climbing routes around the world, the Climbers have completed their races in the Alps. Now their eyes have begun to look elsewhere for greater challenges.
In the early 1990s, there were quite difficult ice routes in the Alps. Andy Parkin and the author created the Beyond Good and Evil route on the northern wall of Aiguille des Pelerins in 1992. Scott Backes and the author climbed a new course a year later on the northern wall of Aiguille Sans Nom and rated it difficult above Beyond. Andy and Francois Marsigny pioneered several similar routes. The hardest part is the Alaskan Freeway (1998) by Dent du Caiman. Each new route is more exciting than the previous one.
Synchronized with the progress of Europe, the extreme alpine climbing has also begun to develop in other regions. George Lowe and Chris Jones made an eye-catching attempt in 1974 at the 6,000-foot North Twin North Wall in Rocky Mountain, Canada. Climb into trouble, unable to retreat. Food and fuel shortages, anorexia, and equipment fall, is Lowe's will and Jones's "high potential for survival" that eventually allowed them to complete the climb. Even by the end of the twentieth century, this route will remain unfinished. For those North American mountains that are raised in the depths and have not been ravaged by mechanical means, they really need to invest so seriously in this line.
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