The forces involved in rock climbing are divided into explosive force, strength endurance and muscular endurance.
(1) Explosive force: refers to the action of mobilizing a large number of muscles or taking a dynamic posture in an instant.
(b) Strength endurance: The maximum muscle strength does not need to be used in an instant for each unit movement, and the movements are within the reasonable muscle load range. Perhaps the entire route must continue to make difficult moves, but it will be much less difficult to climb in stages.
(C) muscle endurance: the difficulty of the route section is not high, but the entire arm will still be stiff after climbing, this type requires specific muscles to make small but long work.
The characteristics and training methods of these three forces are summarized as follows. The training methods can be divided into actual climbing, fingerboard training and weight training.
First, explosiveness training
(i) Explosive power
1. Muscle size: Muscle size refers to the number of muscle fibers and the size of the cross-sectional area. The larger the muscle, the greater the muscle strength it produces. However, when the muscle volume increases, the weight increases faster than the speed of power growth. Because the muscle strength required for climbing is closely related to body weight, the relative strength is far more important than the absolute strength.
2. Maximum Mobilization Capacity of Muscles: The greater the strength of contraction of muscle fibers and the greater the number of fibers that produce contraction, the greater the resulting force. Therefore, the maximum mobilization capacity of muscle refers to the number of muscle fibers mobilized in a contraction. Since muscle mobilization determines the strength of muscles, its role in rock climbing is very important. An ideal player should train medium-sized muscles to control weight, but with extremely high muscle mobilization ability.
3. Association between muscle group coordination and explosiveness: In rock climbing, an action must usually coordinate the muscle groups synchronously. If the muscle lacks a balance of strength or muscle contraction time is different, it can not make a smooth movement. . The coordination of this movement depends on many small muscles around the human joints. They play the role of coordinating and mobilizing large muscles. However, there must be a certain proportion between the two, otherwise the function of small muscle coordination and balance will be greatly limited.
4. The relationship between maximum muscle strength and explosive power: The maximum muscle strength is a prerequisite for high-intensity movements, and its correlation with explosive power lies in the so-called "contact strenght." That is, the time required to produce maximum strength when touching a handle point. For example, when a poor handle point is touched with a dynamic posture, the finger may fall if it cannot accumulate maximum strength instantly. As for the enhancement of the contact point muscle strength, it must depend on the development of maximum mobilization.
(B) explosiveness training
1. Muscle hypertrophy training: The purpose of muscle hypertrophy training is to increase muscle volume to accelerate energy conversion and increase energy storage.
(1) Actual climbing: Although actual climbing can promote muscle hypertrophy, it is not the most effective way. Because it is usually necessary to use the muscles almost exhausted, training can work. However, when climbing a route, what is needed is a combination of different muscles and postures, and it is difficult for a single muscle to reach exhaustion. In fact, a fall in a climb often does not occur when all muscle power is exhausted, but because of the exhaustion of a specific muscle group. Therefore, if you want to make the muscle hypertrophy by actually climbing, you must choose a repeat of the same action and point The course will allow specific muscles to reach an exhausted state within 10 to 25 seconds.
(2) Fingerboard training: Training by means of forceboard is another way to promote muscle hypertrophy. As for the training method, a moderately weighted barbell piece may be suspended on the harness, and the amount of load may be set according to the duration or the maximum muscle strength selected to hold the certain point.
(3) Weight training: The advantage of weight training is that, on the one hand, it is possible to perform reinforcement training on its own or against weaknesses. On the other hand, since there is no need for coordination between muscle groups, it is easier to achieve an effect of exhaustion than actual climbing, and therefore it is also the quickest way to promote muscle hypertrophy. However, on the contrary, muscle coordination and skills will be reduced due to weight training.
2. Maximum mobilization: The purpose of mobilization training is to increase the maximum percentage of muscle fiber contractions. Compared with the "quantity" of muscle hypertrophy training to increase muscle, mobilization training is to increase the maximum muscle strength from the "quality" level.
(1) Actual climbing: As rock climbing often requires high-intensity single action, it can greatly enhance the maximum mobilization of muscles. Because the maximum mobilization power can be stimulated by the fact that the muscles must continue to be exerted within six movements, the difficult course can be selected for training. In addition, the difficulty is best distributed evenly over the entire route, and the groups can also get enough rest.
(2) Fingerboard training: When the maximum mobilization training is performed on the fingerboard, the target should be placed on the lifting of the finger, and the load should be selected on the principle that the weight can support 2-6 seconds. .
(3) Weight training: Weight training has the advantage of being able to accurately calculate and arbitrarily adjust the load, but when performing maximum mobilization training, care should be taken to select actions that promote muscle coordination and match the actual climbing, such as pull-ups. Lean forward and curl his lower arm.
(1) Explosive force: refers to the action of mobilizing a large number of muscles or taking a dynamic posture in an instant.
(b) Strength endurance: The maximum muscle strength does not need to be used in an instant for each unit movement, and the movements are within the reasonable muscle load range. Perhaps the entire route must continue to make difficult moves, but it will be much less difficult to climb in stages.
(C) muscle endurance: the difficulty of the route section is not high, but the entire arm will still be stiff after climbing, this type requires specific muscles to make small but long work.
The characteristics and training methods of these three forces are summarized as follows. The training methods can be divided into actual climbing, fingerboard training and weight training.
First, explosiveness training
(i) Explosive power
1. Muscle size: Muscle size refers to the number of muscle fibers and the size of the cross-sectional area. The larger the muscle, the greater the muscle strength it produces. However, when the muscle volume increases, the weight increases faster than the speed of power growth. Because the muscle strength required for climbing is closely related to body weight, the relative strength is far more important than the absolute strength.
2. Maximum Mobilization Capacity of Muscles: The greater the strength of contraction of muscle fibers and the greater the number of fibers that produce contraction, the greater the resulting force. Therefore, the maximum mobilization capacity of muscle refers to the number of muscle fibers mobilized in a contraction. Since muscle mobilization determines the strength of muscles, its role in rock climbing is very important. An ideal player should train medium-sized muscles to control weight, but with extremely high muscle mobilization ability.
3. Association between muscle group coordination and explosiveness: In rock climbing, an action must usually coordinate the muscle groups synchronously. If the muscle lacks a balance of strength or muscle contraction time is different, it can not make a smooth movement. . The coordination of this movement depends on many small muscles around the human joints. They play the role of coordinating and mobilizing large muscles. However, there must be a certain proportion between the two, otherwise the function of small muscle coordination and balance will be greatly limited.
4. The relationship between maximum muscle strength and explosive power: The maximum muscle strength is a prerequisite for high-intensity movements, and its correlation with explosive power lies in the so-called "contact strenght." That is, the time required to produce maximum strength when touching a handle point. For example, when a poor handle point is touched with a dynamic posture, the finger may fall if it cannot accumulate maximum strength instantly. As for the enhancement of the contact point muscle strength, it must depend on the development of maximum mobilization.
(B) explosiveness training
1. Muscle hypertrophy training: The purpose of muscle hypertrophy training is to increase muscle volume to accelerate energy conversion and increase energy storage.
(1) Actual climbing: Although actual climbing can promote muscle hypertrophy, it is not the most effective way. Because it is usually necessary to use the muscles almost exhausted, training can work. However, when climbing a route, what is needed is a combination of different muscles and postures, and it is difficult for a single muscle to reach exhaustion. In fact, a fall in a climb often does not occur when all muscle power is exhausted, but because of the exhaustion of a specific muscle group. Therefore, if you want to make the muscle hypertrophy by actually climbing, you must choose a repeat of the same action and point The course will allow specific muscles to reach an exhausted state within 10 to 25 seconds.
(2) Fingerboard training: Training by means of forceboard is another way to promote muscle hypertrophy. As for the training method, a moderately weighted barbell piece may be suspended on the harness, and the amount of load may be set according to the duration or the maximum muscle strength selected to hold the certain point.
(3) Weight training: The advantage of weight training is that, on the one hand, it is possible to perform reinforcement training on its own or against weaknesses. On the other hand, since there is no need for coordination between muscle groups, it is easier to achieve an effect of exhaustion than actual climbing, and therefore it is also the quickest way to promote muscle hypertrophy. However, on the contrary, muscle coordination and skills will be reduced due to weight training.
2. Maximum mobilization: The purpose of mobilization training is to increase the maximum percentage of muscle fiber contractions. Compared with the "quantity" of muscle hypertrophy training to increase muscle, mobilization training is to increase the maximum muscle strength from the "quality" level.
(1) Actual climbing: As rock climbing often requires high-intensity single action, it can greatly enhance the maximum mobilization of muscles. Because the maximum mobilization power can be stimulated by the fact that the muscles must continue to be exerted within six movements, the difficult course can be selected for training. In addition, the difficulty is best distributed evenly over the entire route, and the groups can also get enough rest.
(2) Fingerboard training: When the maximum mobilization training is performed on the fingerboard, the target should be placed on the lifting of the finger, and the load should be selected on the principle that the weight can support 2-6 seconds. .
(3) Weight training: Weight training has the advantage of being able to accurately calculate and arbitrarily adjust the load, but when performing maximum mobilization training, care should be taken to select actions that promote muscle coordination and match the actual climbing, such as pull-ups. Lean forward and curl his lower arm.
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