Shenzhen Spain's coaching exchange documentary (one, two)

As an excellent climber, especially a good competitive climber, scientific training methods are very important. The level of training will be directly reflected in the competition. However, how to carry out scientific training is a problem that has been puzzled by some domestic coaches. This time, the Spanish exchange is mainly conducted with this as the center.
Here we briefly summarize the exchanges from several aspects for your reference.
Some of the methods in this article are used by Spanish coaches to train their athletes. What we do is to organize and classify them so that we can understand how foreign elite athletes are trained.
Before we begin, talk about something that seems insignificant.


First of all, the training conditions for Spanish athletes are very poor. According to their coaches, Spain does not have such a large rock wall in Shenzhen. Their training for rock climbers is basically on a small rock wall (similar to a bouldering wall). If you need to climb the route, you can only go to the natural rock field in the wild.

Secondly, the two athletes in this competition are not professional athletes either. They have their own jobs or are still attending school. Therefore, their training is usually arranged in the afternoon. There are six days of training each week, about 6 hours per day.

Third, they have a scientific training method. After the daily training, they will be given a professional masseur to relax.

Fourth, in Spain, people are not trained before the age of 14 and after the age of 20. (For competitive rock climbers)


Finally, they give some suggestions for beginners. For beginners, the most important thing is to watch more, climb more, cultivate interest in rock climbing, and constantly change the way you practice, so that you can experience the fun of rock climbing and see more. Learn some new moves. Don't overemphasize physical fitness training. Focus on technical training. If you have the opportunity, watch more high-level games to broaden your horizons, but don't participate in competitions. Do not blindly conduct physical training. It is not necessary to perform heavy training and fingerboard exercises until the climbing level reaches 5.13. And very important, we must first cultivate the interests of climbers.

Then talk about the Spanish coach's training method.

The four elements of training Spanish coach divided the training of rock climbing into four aspects: physical fitness, technology, psychology, and strain.

First, physical fitness includes maximum strength, endurance, and flexibility.

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